![]() ![]() I removed the drain pipes between the sink baskets and the P-trap. This will all need to be re-built after the disposer is installed. The curvy pipe under your sink is called the P-trap. It’s designed to prevent noxious gases from backing up through a drain by holding water in the bend, sealing. How to Remove and Install a Bathroom Faucet. This tutorial will show you not only how to remove and install a bathroom faucet (it’s not as hard as you might think!), but it will also show you a way to change from a three- hole faucet to a single. One option for this switch is to use a deck plate, which is included with many faucets. While this tutorial shows a different strategy for what happens with the faucet on top of the countertop (check out this article on creating a faux marble countertop for details), the method of hooking up the water for the plumbing will be the same. Let’s get started. View in gallery(You can also check out this tutorial for removing and installing a kitchen sink faucet.)View in gallery. Start by turning off the water under your bathroom sink. Have you looked under your sink only to see a myriad of pipes? You know water needs to drain from sink but is all this plumbing pipe really necessary?With your pedestal sink on the wall, you can install the P-trap. The U-shape of this pipe is the trap that retains enough water to prevent sewer gases from entering. Have a bucket handy, because you will have some water leak out when you go to unhook the hoses. View in gallery. Turn off both the hot and the cold water valves. Also, while you’re down here, unhook the sink stopper. View in gallery. Pull the sink stopper out so it’s out of your way. Chances are, your space is limited underneath that small bathroom sink, so any opportunity you have to remove something to clear out some space is an opportunity you should take. View in gallery. Turn on the faucet handles to let any residual water drain into the sink. View in gallery. Use a crescent wrench to unscrew the hoses. View in gallery. If you have a plastic connector, unsnap the plastic guard. View in gallery. Then squeeze the two plastic tabs on the sides, and pull the connector off. View in gallery. Securing each component of the faucet (the handles and the faucet itself) will be a nut of some sort, screwed into place. Use a screwdriver to loosen these screws. View in gallery. Then twist the brass nut counterclockwise to unscrew it as well. View in gallery. Twist it until it comes all the way off. You’ll notice a rubber O- ring. This should be removed as well. View in gallery. Pull off all components that were holding the handle into place from the underside of the countertop. Repeat for the other handle. View in gallery. Use your crescent wrench to unscrew the large nut that secures the faucet (and accompanying plate) into place. View in gallery. With all of the under- counter components loosened and removed, you can now remove all your faucet parts. Pull out the faucet. View in gallery. Remove the handles. View in gallery. Pull off anything else from the countertop so that all you are left with are your exposed faucet holes. Nicely done! Make any changes to your countertop you wish (here’s an idea for faux marble with concrete, as well as a transition from a three- hole faucet setup to a single hole), then get ready to move onto your new faucet installation. View in gallery. The faucet we’ll be installing today is called a Jaida. It’s a single- hole faucet with a pop- up drain. View in gallery. Remove the faucet from the box. From the mounting bolt, unscrew the nut and remove the mounting plate. View in gallery. At this point, it’s a good idea to identify which of the copper pipes is for hot and which is for cold. These should be labeled. In this case, the longer pipe is hot. View in gallery. Grab your plumber’s putty. This will go on the rubber O- ring to seal the space between the countertop and the rubber ring. On top of the rubber ring is the faucet itself.)View in gallery. Take little bits of plumber’s putty at a time and fill the groove on the bottom of the rubber seal. View in gallery. Place the seal and faucet on the countertop, threading the pipes and mounting bolt down through the countertop hole. View in gallery. Try not to move the rubber seal much after placing it, to ensure that the plumber’s putty stays put. Do a preemptive straightening of the faucet, although you’ll need to come back to it a little later in the process to make sure it’s completely straight. View in gallery. On the underside of the countertop, replace the mounting plate (bumps toward the countertop so as to improve “grip”) and nut. Don’t crank down too hard on the nut at this point, although the faucet should be able to stand up securely on its own after tightening the nut underneath. View in gallery. Take one of the adapters and one of the pins. These will attach to the end of either the hot or cold pipe (coming out of the faucet), allowing you to later connect the house’s hot or cold water source to the faucet. View in gallery. Pop the adapter onto the pipe, threaded side down. Position the pin to hold it securely in place. Repeat for the other adapter, pin, and faucet pipe. View in gallery. Attach Teflon tape to the threaded end of one of the adapters. This helps to solidify the seal, when you go to connect the water, to prevent leaking. View in gallery. Using a plumbing hose extension (which should be already attached to your water sources from when you removed your faucet originally), connect the appropriate water source to the Teflon taped adapter. Hot water generally comes from the left, cold water from the right. View in gallery. Repeat for the other adapter and hose: Teflon tape, adapter, hose. Although the water should still be off at this point, you’re all hooked up. View in gallery. Because the Jaida faucet comes with a pop- up drain, we’ll need to remove the old drain in order to install it. Begin by removing the drain lever under the sink. View in gallery. Then loosen the nut that connects the drain pipe to the sink itself. This will probably require a wrench. View in gallery. Unscrew the nut enough so that you can push upward on the drain. View in gallery. Have a helper grab a pair of pliers. While one person gently pushes the drain pipe upward, the other person will grab the drain ring from in the sink and pull it out. View in gallery. Remove the drain ring completely. We never said this job would be glamorous. View in gallery. Unscrew all the pieces under the sink from the drain pipe down to the P- trap (but don’t remove the P- trap). This will likely include the drain pipe and then another black plastic coupler pipe with two black rings, one on top and one on bottom, and plastic seals. View in gallery. You can get rid of the drain pipe, but you’ll want to keep the black coupler pipe (assuming it’s still in good shape). Wash all components, then replace it back onto the P- trap. View in gallery. Thoroughly clean the sink drain hole. View in gallery. Place the new pop- up drain into the sink drain hole. Straighten out any words or logos on the drain, if that sort of thing is important to you. View in gallery. Before you push the drain all the way down onto the black coupler pipe, you’ll need to thread the new drain pipe down through new plastic seal and “nut,” in that order. View in gallery. While one person works the new seal up toward the bottom of the sink, the other person should hold the drain in place above in the sink. View in gallery. Screw on the new “nut.” Again, someone should be holding the drain in place, particularly if you’re trying to keep any words or logos straight. View in gallery. Affix the black coupler pipe (also could be thought of as the P- trap extender pipe) to the new drain pipe. View in gallery. It’s all coming together! View in gallery. When everything is tightened, check out the new pop- up feature of your drain. Don’t be alarmed if, in the plug position, the metal doesn’t touch the sink. View in gallery. The plugging mechanism is actually underneath the metal drain plate. View in gallery. With the drain in place and looking awesome, it’s time to make final adjustments to the faucet itself. One person should hold it perfectly straight from up above…View in gallery…while the other person tightens the faucet nut a little more from under the sink. View in gallery. Use a wrench for these final tightening steps. Tighten the water connections. View in gallery. Turn your water lines back on, and try out your new sink. Hang out under the sink for a while to make sure there are no leaks; if you notice any water, turn the water off and tighten up the leakage. View in gallery. Congratulations! You’ve just upgraded your bathroom vanity faucet, and it functions well and looks amazing. Note: The author is an experienced, although not professional, DIYer. Neither the author nor Homedit is responsible for any injury or damage that may be a result of following this tutorial. How To Install An In- Sink- Erator Food Waste Disposer or Garbage Disposal. By. Maki, Editor. Start: I was recently asked to install an In- Sink- Erator food waste disposer in a. Years ago when I worked in resort maintenance I had replaced several. Replacing an In- Sink- Erator disposer is pretty easy; installing a new. In- Sink- Erator seems to have a lock on the market for garbage disposals. ISE. is the only brand I've replaced or installed, and I see the brand everywhere. The units I've replaced have all been in ski resort condos, and skiers are not. ISE. disposers conk out after two decades. Note that these appliances do not come with a power cord. For a. replacement, the cord is simply transferred. For a new disposer, you can buy a. ISE disposers, or make your own from a male plug and flexible cable of. The red arrow points to the snap ring. The snap ring was pried off with a twist of a screwdriver. I made three laps around the hole with the silicone, just to. I had complete coverage. It's easier to remove the excess than to. I placed the top flange in the hole. This is a bit awkward to do with one person, and it's even more difficult to. AFTER I did this, I read in the instructions that placing a couple of wide rubber bands. D'oh! This is a good point to take a break, as the silicone will start to harden. Dishwasher Connection: I used a hammer and a screwdriver to remove this knock- out. Don't leave this chunk of metal inside the disposer or it'll make an. The next step was to install the dishwasher drain hose on the disposer inlet. O. D. tube. I had purchased a connection adapter rubber boot, just in case, but. The hose has to clamp onto something. I cut a short length of ½" copper pipe, which has an outside. Connections: It's important to note that the usual method of controlling a waste disposer. No Switched Outlet? Disposers do not have an on/off switch, so if there's not already a. In older. houses I have seen this approach: Run a cable to the cabinet below the sink. Install a metal surface- mount box just inside the cabinet door for. Connect the power cord to the switch. Note that armored cable (which has a flexible metal sheath) or. This is basic electrical work, if the house has a basement or crawl. Without access from below, getting power to the space under the. The proper approach is to fish a cable downward. This can be a complex job that requires some specialty. For some people the easiest solution is to have an. The disposer does not come with a power cord, so I bought one made by. In- Sink- Erator. A cord could be made just as well, as long as everything is rated. The ISE cord uses 1. I would use at. least that size, probably bigger (such as 1. While it's tempting to use plain NM- B building cable (which is meant to be. Most hardware stores and home centers carry a wide. Some building codes may require flexible conduit. The Disposer Connects To The Mounting Bracket: ISE disposers use a clever mounting technique. When an old ISE disposer is. I attached the disposer to the mounting bracket. This is. kinda tricky because it's difficult to get all 3 tabs to catch on the. Having a helper makes this easier. Before tightening, the disposer may need to be rotated so the drain. Connections: The red arrows point out the places where the original. Note how the T- connector junction piece (between the two arrows) is much lower than. I had to buy a longer tailpiece for. I needed an extension tube to connect the tee to the. Originally there was a dishwasher tee fitting below the main tee. I removed that. Normally a dishwasher is drained into the disposal. I guess the reason is that any food waste in the dishwasher can be ground up. The trap was the last piece of drain that I installed. For more information on drain plumbing, read Installing A Sink Drain. After the silicone had dried, I cut it away with a sharp. It's best to wait a full day before doing this, because the. This is the biggest drawback to using silicone under the sink flange. Removing excess putty is easier, but. I've never had a siliconed sink connection leak. Breaking such a connection apart isn't so easy, however, but that should. The view from the top. If the rubber splash guard ever gets damaged (I've seen that happen) it. Replacing a worn rubber guard is a good idea when selling your house. What Evil Lurks In The Heart Of A Food Waste Disposer? If you've ever wanted to know how a garbage disposal works, don't go sticking. Look at this picture instead: The primary components in a disposer are the hammers (arrow. All of the residential. I've seen have two hammers. When the power is applied, the base rotates and the food particles are. When a piece of food gets. Chunks small enough to fit through a hole are washed downstream. If there is nothing in the disposer, the hammers don't flail around, and the. I've seen a few disposal problems over the years: Jammed shaft: ISE supplies a small Allen wrench (they call it a "wrenchette"). It's pretty easy to jam up. Tough materials like the. Getting a piece of broken glass in the disposer is another common. Overload: If an ISE disposer won't run, first make sure the shaft is. A small red button will pop out if the motor jams and becomes. Leaving the power applied to a stalled electric motor WILL overload. Plugged Disposer: Years ago I lived in an apartment and I put a lot of. They mostly didn't go down. I had to reach into the. Then I removed the sink trap and picked out a. Mildew Smell: In that same apartment, the disposer had a nasty mildew. I tried the usual remedy.. I filled. the unit with ice cubes and ground them up, but still no improvement. I looked. inside with a flashlight and I determined that there was fungal growth on the. I didn't own a lot of tools then, so I had no way of applying chlorine. So I filled the unit with. I turned it on I poured some full- strength bleach inside. It. didn't help much. In hindsight, a better approach would be to dip some sort of. Failing that, removing the unit. I solved the problem by. Maintenance: Pouring ice cubes into the disposal is the usual way of cleaning. Just don't pack it too full.. ISE recommends. occasionally grinding hard material such as small. Used: Adjustable Wrenches. Channel- Lock Pliers. Sink Basket Wrench. Basic Hand Tools. Materials Used: Disposer, In- Sink- Erator ½HPPower Cord. Dishwasher Connector Boot. Plumbing Drain Parts. Clear Silicone Caulk. Do you like this article ? Back To Top Of Page Read our Disclaimer. Search Page. Home What's New Project. Archives H. I. World Rants.
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